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Origins in French Authenticity: L’Oursin and its Comforting Brandade Croquettes
You know that feeling when you’re wandering through a city, no real plans, and you stumble upon a place that just feels… right? It’s not in the main tourist drag, there’s no big flashy sign. It’s just a corner spot with a warm glow coming from the windows, the quiet hum of happy conversation spilling out onto the sidewalk.
That was me, finding L’Oursin in Seattle’s Central District.
I’d been exploring the city for days, eating my way through all the quintessential Seattle stuff – salmon, chowder, you name it. But on this particular evening, I was just walking, letting my feet decide the way. I turned a corner and saw it. L’Oursin. The name alone, French for “sea urchin,” was enough to pull me in.
The vibe inside was perfect. It wasn’t stuffy or pretentious. It felt like a real neighborhood joint, the kind of place you’d go to every Friday if you lived down the street. It was busy but relaxed, with a long bar and a friendly-looking bartender pouring interesting-looking wines.
I grabbed a seat at the bar and scanned the menu. It was all in French, with English translations, full of things that made me nostalgic for a trip to France I took years ago. I wasn’t in the mood for a massive meal, so I went for a glass of wine and a couple of small plates. My eyes landed on Brandade Croquettes. Sold.
Let me tell you about these croquettes. They came out, these perfect little golden-brown spheres, sitting on a swirl of aioli. The second I bit into one, there was this incredible crunch. And then, the inside. It was this warm, creamy, savory mix of salt cod and potato that just melted in my mouth. It wasn’t heavy or greasy. It was just… perfect. Each bite was like a little hug for your taste buds. I could have eaten about twenty of them.
As I was sitting there, slowly savoring my wine and trying not to devour the croquettes in five seconds flat, I got curious. This place didn’t feel like an American restaurant imitating a French one. It felt like the real deal. So, I started chatting with the bartender.
“This place has a great feel,” I said. “What’s the story behind it?”
And that’s when I got the origin story, which made everything click into place.
Turns out, the chef and owner, JJ Proville, is a Seattle native, but he spent a huge chunk of his career cooking in Paris. He wasn’t just working in any old kitchens; he was deep in the scene, especially in these spots called caves à manger.
The bartender explained that a cave à manger is basically a wine shop where you can also eat. It’s super casual. You go in, pick a bottle of natural wine off the shelf, and they’ll open it for you to drink there with some simple, amazing food – charcuterie, cheese, small plates exactly like the croquettes I was eating. It’s less of a formal restaurant and more of a social hangout. It’s all about good wine, good food, and good company, without any of the fuss.
That’s the entire spirit he brought back to Seattle. L’Oursin isn’t trying to be a fancy, white-tablecloth French restaurant. It’s a tribute to that specific, wonderful Parisian culture of just hanging out and enjoying the simple, good things. The natural wines, the focus on seafood, the small plates that are perfect for sharing (or not, in my case).
Suddenly, the whole experience made sense. The relaxed atmosphere, the incredible-yet-unfussy food, the emphasis on the wine. It all stemmed from a genuine experience, from a real love for a certain way of life.
I left L’Oursin feeling so content. It’s one of my favorite things about traveling – finding those spots that are more than just a place to eat. They’re a story, a passion project, a little piece of another world brought to a new neighborhood. And honestly, finding a little corner of Paris in the Pacific Northwest was a discovery I won’t be forgetting anytime soon.
A Celebration of French Authenticity: Crafting Your Own Comforting L’Oursin Inspired Brandade Croquettes
To capture the elegant, vibrant essence of L’Oursin’s celebrated Brandade Croquettes in your own kitchen, begin with high-quality salt cod and potatoes, and a touch of French inspiration. This culinary journey celebrates the simple beauty of well-prepared ingredients, much like the refined ethos at L’Oursin.
Embarking on this endeavor is a lesson in appreciating the inherent richness of salt cod and the subtle, creamy notes of whipped potato and garlic. Focus on thoroughly desalting the cod and whipping the mixture to a light, fluffy consistency. Start by selecting good quality salt cod and fluffy potatoes, the foundation of this delightful dish.
Consider incorporating elements that reflect L’Oursin’s focus on highlighting the best of classic French ingredients. A generous drizzle of good quality olive oil and a touch of fresh parsley will enhance the inherent flavors and bring out their natural character. The key is to let the quality of the cod and the harmonious blend of flavors be the star.
Pay close attention to properly desalting the cod through multiple changes of water. The whipping process should be vigorous, combining the cod and potatoes until light and airy. The aroma filling your kitchen will be a testament to the simple yet profound transformation of quality ingredients.
As you prepare this vibrant dish, you’ll appreciate the ease and satisfaction of creating something both delicious and elegant. It’s a celebration of classic bistro flavors, minimal fuss, and the pure pleasure of enjoying a simply prepared yet flavorful dish, inspired by the artistry of L’Oursin.
Chef’s Notes: Fish Potato Croquettes
• Dry your mash like a pro – After boiling, return potatoes to the pot over low heat for a few minutes to steam off excess moisture. It’s key to a firm, creamy croquette base.
• Let the garlic melt, not brown – Cook your garlic low and slow in oil until golden and soft—not crisp—for sweet, mellow depth instead of sharp bite.
• Don’t skip the chill – A short rest in the fridge firms the croquettes, helps them hold their shape, and keeps crumbs from falling off during frying.
• Mild fish, maximum flavor – Soaked salt cod yields silky flakes and layers the croquette with savory brine. Prefer something milder? Smoked haddock works beautifully.
• Flavor punch from the zest – Lemon zest brightens the richness and lifts the garlic and cod. Add it late so it stays fragrant and vibrant.
• Keep it bite-sized – Golf-ball size (1–1½ tablespoons) ensures even cooking and a creamy center with a crisp, golden shell.
• Breadcrumbs matter – Use fine crumbs for a uniform coat that fries evenly. Coarse crumbs can create an uneven, oil-soaked crust.
• Oil temp is everything – Fry at a steady 350°F. Too cool, and they absorb oil; too hot, and the outsides burn before the centers heat through.
• Make it a meal or a nibble – Serve four with greens for dinner, or halve the size and serve on picks with aioli for party bites.
• Freeze for later wins – Shape and breadcrumb croquettes, freeze on a tray, then bag. Fry from frozen at 325°F until golden and hot inside.
Fish Potato Croquettes
Get ready to wow your family and friends with these golden, garlicky bites! Inspired by classic French brandade but simplified for home cooks, these Fish Potato Croquettes marry flaky salt-cured fish, creamy Yukon Gold mash, and slow-cooked garlic in every crunchy bite. Channel your inner celebrity chef as you shape, coat, and fry these savory morsels—perfect for appetizers, snacks, or a fun weeknight twist. No fuss, all flavor!
4
servings20
minutes30
minutes550
kcal10
minutes1
hourKeep the screen of your device on
Ingredients
- Stovetop-Softened Garlic
12 pieces peeled garlic cloves
0.25 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- Flaky Fish and Mash Base
24 oz peeled, cubed Yukon Gold potatoes
8 oz salt-cured cod soaked 8–12 hours and rinsed
0.5 cup whole milk
2 large eggs lightly beaten
2 pieces fresh bay leaves or 3 thyme sprigs
2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
pinch kosher salt
- Coating Frying
2 cups fine dry breadcrumbs
2 cups neutral oil grapeseed or avocado
flaky sea salt
Alternative Ingredients
- Alternative Ingredients
– Replace salt cod with soaked haddock or smoked pollock.
– Swap whole milk for almond milk dairy-free or oat milk.
– Use flaxseed “egg” 1 tbsp ground flax + 3 tbsp water in place of eggs.
– Gluten-free panko or crushed rice crackers instead of breadcrumbs.
– Avocado or sunflower oil in lieu of grapeseed oil.
– Purple or sweet potatoes swap equally well for Yukon Gold.
Directions
- Garlic Confit Prep – Begin by heating your oven to 300°F. Place peeled garlic cloves in a small ovenproof dish and pour in olive oil until cloves are just covered. Slow-roast until cloves yield to a fork, about 45–60 minutes (approx. 5 min hands-on). Cool, then transfer garlic plus oil to a jar; store up to a week.
- Potato Mash Formation – Boil potatoes in well-salted water until fork-tender, roughly 15 minutes. Drain thoroughly in a colander and return to pot over low heat to drive off moisture for 2–3 minutes. Mash until silky; stir in beaten eggs and a pinch of salt, then set aside (allow ~5 min for cooling).
- Cod Poaching Flaking – In a small saucepan, combine cod, milk, bay leaves, and a pinch of salt. Gently simmer, about 8–10 minutes, until fish flakes under pressure. Remove cod, discard herbs, and let fish cool; flake into small bits with your fingers (takes ~3 min).
- Mixture Assembly – To the mash, add ½ cup warm milk, garlic paste from confit (about 8 cloves), 2 tbsp reserved garlic oil, and lemon zest. Stir until smooth, then fold in flaked cod until evenly distributed. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt or lemon if desired (~2 min).
- Shaping Coating – Scoop tablespoonfuls of mixture and roll into 16 golf-ball-sized croquettes; wet hands if sticky. Spread breadcrumbs on a platter and gently press croquettes to coat fully. Chill 10 minutes to help set (optional but recommended).
- Frying to Golden – Heat grapeseed oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high until shimmering (~350°F, about 5 min). Fry croquettes in batches for 3–4 minutes per side, turning to achieve an even golden crust. Drain on paper towels and finish with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. Serve immediately.
Equipment
- Chef’s Knife
- Cutting Board
- Mixing Bowls
- measuring cups and spoons
- cast iron skillet
- colander
Notes
- Ensure potatoes are thoroughly drained and lightly dried in their pot to prevent a soggy mash. Use a kitchen thermometer to maintain oil at 350°F for uniform browning. Serve these croquettes with a lemon-garlic aioli, mixed greens, or roasted vegetables. For extra herb aroma, fold chopped parsley or chives into the mash before shaping.
Nutrition Facts
- Serving Size: 1g
- Calories: 550kcal
- Fat: 30g
- Saturated Fat: 5g
- Trans Fat: 0g
- Polyunsaturated Fat: 4g
- Monounsaturated Fat: 15g
- Cholesterol: 115mg
- Sodium: 820mg
- Potassium: 780mg
- Carbohydrates: 48g
- Fiber: 4g
- Sugar: 3g
- Protein: 20g
- Vitamin A: 300IU
- Vitamin C: 18mg
- Calcium: 120mg
- Iron: 2.5mg
FAQs: Fish Potato Croquettes
Can I use fresh fish instead of salt cod?
Yes. Use poached white fish like cod, haddock, or pollock, but add extra salt and a splash of lemon juice to replicate the brininess.
Do I need to use garlic confit?
Not strictly, but it adds mellow depth. If short on time, gently sauté minced garlic in oil for 4–5 minutes until soft and fragrant.
What’s the best potato to use?
Yukon Golds strike the perfect balance between creamy and waxy. Russets can work but need extra moisture, like an extra yolk or splash of milk.
Can I make these gluten-free?
Yes. Swap breadcrumbs with crushed gluten-free crackers, rice crumbs, or gluten-free panko.
How long can I store leftovers?
Refrigerate up to 3 days in an airtight container. Reheat in a 350°F oven for 10–12 minutes to re-crisp the shell.
What oil is best for frying?
Grapeseed or avocado oil are neutral and have high smoke points. Avoid olive oil or butter, which can burn.
Can I bake instead of fry?
Yes. Brush with oil and bake at 400°F for 20–25 minutes, flipping halfway through. Texture will be lighter, but still crisp.
What dip goes well with these?
Lemon-garlic aioli, herbed yogurt, or even a quick Dijon mustard-mayo blend pair beautifully with the croquettes’ richness.
Can I add veggies?
Certainly. Finely diced leeks, green peas, or blanched spinach can be folded into the mash before shaping for extra dimension.
Why are mine falling apart?
They may be too wet or under-chilled. Be sure to cook off moisture from the potatoes and chill the mixture before shaping and frying.
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