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Dinner by the Big Library Windows: Biga and The Jerk Scallops
So I’m walking down the River Walk in San Antonio and you know how it is. It’s hot, there are tourists everywhere, and you’re just looking for something that isn’t a margarita machine or a tex-mex tourist trap. That is when I stumbled onto Biga on the Banks. Now the name got me curious. Biga.
If you bake bread you probably know what that means but for the rest of us it sounds like a nickname for a big guy in a mob movie. Turns out it is actually way cooler. Biga is this Italian dough starter used to make bread like ciabatta. It is just flour and water and yeast that sits around and gets flavorful before you even start baking.
The reason the place is named that is part of the whole charm. Back in the day, like 1991, Chef Bruce Auden opened the original spot in this old historic home in Tobin Hill. His wife at the time ran a bakery called LocuStreet in the back of the house. So you had this high-end food up front and the smell of fresh baking bread in the back. The name stuck even when they moved to the river in 2000.
Speaking of the move, the location is neat. It’s inside this International Center building but here is the fun fact I learned while chatting up the bartender. The space used to be the reading room for the public library. That explains why the windows are absolutely massive.
You are sitting there eating dinner looking out these floor-to-ceiling windows at the San Antonio River and it feels open and airy, not like some dark stuffy steakhouse. So let’s talk about the food because that is why we are here right.

Chef Auden is this British guy who somehow became the godfather of San Antonio fine dining. He mixes all these influences together and it just works. I sat down and saw the Habanero Jerk Scallops on the menu and knew I had to do it. You might worry about the habanero part if you aren’t big on spice but trust me on this one.
When the plate came out it looked incredible. You have these perfectly seared scallops sitting on top of cheesy Texas grits. And I mean proper creamy cheesy grits. But the kicker is the pineapple rum chutney they put on there.
I took a bite and it was a whole journey. You get that initial sear of the scallop then the rich cheese from the grits hits you. Then the habanero heat creeps in but right before it gets too crazy the sweet pineapple chutney cuts right through it. It’s spicy and sweet and creamy all at once. I honestly could have eaten ten of them.
The vibe in there is just easy. You have people in suits and people in jeans and nobody cares. It feels like a place that takes the food seriously but doesn’t take itself too seriously if you know what I mean.
If you are ever wandering around San Antonio sweating through your shirt and needing a break from the crowds you should definitely duck into Biga. Grab a seat by the big library windows and order those scallops. You won’t regret it.

A Scallop Reverie for Tuesday Nights
Going back home, the vacation is over, and you’re staring at a sad ham sandwich thinking about those scallops. I’ve been there. The good news is that you don’t need a Michelin star to recreate the magic in your own kitchen. You just need some patience and a decent fishmonger.
Here is how I whip up my tribute to that Biga masterpiece on a random Tuesday night.
I always start with the chutney because it needs time to get to know itself. I grab a fresh pineapple don’t you dare use the canned stuff and chop it into small, tidy cubes. I toss that into a saucepan with a splash of dark rum. You want the good stuff, something you’d actually drink. I add a scoop of brown sugar, a splash of cider vinegar to cut the sweet, and a little grated ginger.
Sometimes I throw in a diced red pepper for color. I let that bubble away on the stove on low heat while I sip the rest of the rum. You want it to get sticky and jammy, which usually takes about twenty minutes or so. Once it looks like something you’d want to eat with a spoon, I take it off the heat to cool down.
While the chutney is doing its thing, I get the grits going. Now, instant grits are a crime against humanity, so I use the stone-ground kind. They take longer but the texture is worth it. I boil a mix of chicken stock and heavy cream yes, it’s decadent, but we aren’t counting calories tonight. I whisk in the grits and turn the heat down to a whisper.
You have to baby them a bit, stirring every so often so they don’t stick. When they are creamy and soft, I fold in a mountain of sharp white cheddar and a knob of butter. I season it with salt and plenty of black pepper until it tastes like a warm hug.
Now for the main event. Scallops are intimidating to some people, but they are actually super fast. The trick is keeping them dry. I pat them down with paper towels until they are bone dry. If they are wet, they won’t sear; they’ll just steam and get rubbery. For the “jerk” part, I make a little spice rub. I mix salt, dried thyme, allspice, a little cinnamon, and cayenne pepper.
Since finding dried habanero powder can be a pain, I stick to cayenne for the heat, but if you have the habanero stuff, use it carefully. I dust the scallops lightly with the spice mix.
I get my cast-iron skillet ripping hot with a little oil. You want it smoking slightly. I place the scallops in the pan and this is the most important part I don’t touch them. I let them sizzle for exactly two minutes until they have a beautiful golden crust. I flip them over, sear for another minute, and then pull them off immediately. They cook fast, and you want them tender like butter inside.
To serve it up, I spoon a big puddle of those cheesy grits into a shallow bowl. I nestle three or four scallops right on top and then crown them with a spoonful of that sticky pineapple rum chutney. When you take a bite, make sure you get a little bit of everything. The sweet, the spicy, and the creamy all hit you at once, and for a second, you might just feel like you’re back on the River Walk watching the boats go by.

Chef’s Notes: Spicy Caribbean Seared Scallops
• Dry scallops thoroughly before searing – Moisture prevents caramelization and leads to steaming instead of crusting.
• Use a hot pan with neutral oil – Medium-high heat ensures a golden crust without overcooking the delicate interior.
• Season generously with jerk spices – Allspice, thyme, nutmeg, and ginger create authentic Caribbean warmth.
• Avoid overcrowding the pan – Gives scallops room to sear evenly and keeps oil temperature stable.
• Cook quickly, 2–3 minutes per side – Overcooked scallops turn rubbery; aim for opaque centers with tender bite.
• Optional basting with hot oil – Adds richness and helps spices bloom during the final minute of cooking.
• Balance heat with citrus – A squeeze of lime or orange juice brightens and cools the spice.
• Pair with light sides – Coconut rice, sautéed greens, or mango salsa complement the bold jerk flavors.
• Adjust spice to preference – Swap habanero for paprika or add brown sugar for a sweeter balance.
• Serve immediately – Scallops continue cooking off-heat; plating quickly preserves tenderness.
FAQs: Spicy Caribbean Seared Scallops
Can I use smaller scallops instead of large sea scallops?
Absolutely! Bay scallops, which are about 1–2 ounces each, can replace large sea scallops without losing flavor. Adjust the searing time to 1–2 minutes per side to avoid overcooking. At Biga, chefs often use smaller scallops in tasting menus while maintaining the same bold Caribbean jerk seasoning, proving that size doesn’t compromise taste. By following similar methods to Biga, your scallops will remain tender, juicy, and full of flavor.
How can I control the spiciness in this recipe?
The spice level primarily comes from cayenne and dried habanero. For milder heat, reduce cayenne by 50% and omit habanero entirely. This approach mirrors techniques used at Biga for guests who prefer subtle spice, ensuring balanced flavor. Even with reduced heat, Biga’s signature Caribbean jerk profile is maintained, giving you a spicy but approachable dish.
Is it possible to prepare scallops in advance?
Yes. You can season scallops up to 1 hour before cooking and store them in the refrigerator in a covered container. This method is similar to Biga’s prep strategy, where seasoning ahead enhances flavor absorption without compromising texture. Following Biga’s approach ensures the scallops remain tender and develop deeper Caribbean flavors when seared fresh.
What sides pair best with these Caribbean seared scallops?
Traditional sides include coconut jasmine rice, lightly sautéed vegetables, or a crisp green salad to complement the spices. At Biga, these accompaniments are designed to balance the bold jerk seasoning while highlighting scallop sweetness. Recreating Biga’s pairings at home ensures a well-rounded, restaurant-quality meal with layered flavors.
Can I substitute the olive oil with other fats for searing?
Yes, avocado oil or grapeseed oil can be used due to their high smoke points, similar to Biga’s kitchen practices. Biga emphasizes using oils that maintain heat stability to achieve a perfect golden sear without burning, ensuring the scallops are crispy outside and tender inside. Using alternative oils at home replicates Biga’s searing consistency perfectly.
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