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The Best Tavern in the World: Wayside Tavern and The Cod Cheek
As a traveler you search for the places that feel like they’ve always been there. The ones that are so comfortable in their own skin they don’t need to shout. I was walking through the West End of Portland Maine a beautiful historic neighborhood. I turned a corner and saw a place that just felt right. The sign was simple and classic. Wayside Tavern.
It felt like a name from a good book. It promised a cozy refuge from the world. I had to go in.
Stepping inside was like finding a secret. The room was beautiful and timeless. It was all warm dark wood soft glowing lights and the happy murmur of a room full of people at ease. It felt like a classic European tavern that had been hiding in Portland all along. It was the kind of place you could settle into for hours.
I found a spot at the beautiful wooden bar and looked over the menu. It was a perfect list of thoughtful soulful food. My eyes landed on something I had never seen before. Beer Battered Cod Cheek.
The cheek is supposed to be the most tender part of the fish. I was so intrigued.
When the plate came it was a picture of simple perfection. A little pile of golden brown nuggets. I took a bite. And it was a moment of pure magic. The beer batter was so incredibly light and crispy it was like air. And the cod cheek inside was the most tender delicate piece of fish I have ever had. It just melted in my mouth. It was a simple perfect bite.
This was food with a deep soul. This place had a real story.
I got to talking with the bartender. I said “This is absolutely perfect. This whole place feels like it has existed forever. What is the story of Wayside Tavern?”
A big warm smile spread across his face. He told me that’s exactly the feeling the owners were going for. He said it was a dream of a husband and wife team. They are veterans of the Portland food scene. They wanted to create the kind of place they themselves wanted to go to.
He explained they didn’t want to chase trends. They wanted to create a timeless neighborhood tavern. A place that felt like a refuge. A spot that was all about warm hospitality and simple delicious food made with incredible skill. The name Wayside Tavern was their perfect description of that dream. A welcoming spot you discover along your journey.
And in that moment my plate of perfect cod cheeks made complete sense.
It was the entire philosophy of the restaurant in one bite. A humble part of the fish the cheek treated with so much respect and skill that it became something truly special.
I left Wayside Tavern feeling like I had been let in on a wonderful secret. It’s a place that is so full of heart and so clear in its beautiful vision. It’s a powerful delicious reminder that the best places aren’t the newest or the loudest. They’re the ones that feel like they’ve been waiting just for you.
Recreating That Perfect Bite: A Cod Cheek Adventure at Home
That beer battered cod cheek from Wayside Tavern was so light and perfect it became a mission. I had to figure out how to capture that magic at home. It turns out the secret isn’t a complex recipe but a simple dance between cold batter and hot oil.
The adventure starts with the fish itself. Finding cod cheeks feels like a treasure hunt but they are worth it. They are the most tender little medallions of fish. The first and most important step is to pat them completely dry and give them a very light dusting in some flour seasoned with a little salt and pepper. This gives the batter something to hold on to.
Now for the batter where the real alchemy happens. I whisk together some all purpose flour with a little baking powder for lift and some salt. Then comes the star of the show a very cold beer. A light lager or pilsner works best. The colder the better. The bubbles in the beer are what create that impossibly light and airy crust. I pour it in and whisk just until it comes together. A few lumps are a sign you did it right. You don’t want to overwork it.
With the batter ready and the fish waiting it’s time for the heat. I get a good amount of neutral oil hot in a heavy pot. You know it’s ready when a tiny drop of batter sizzles and dances on the surface. I dip each cod cheek into the batter letting any excess drip off and then gently lay it into the hot oil. It’s important not to crowd them. They need their space to become golden and crispy.
They only need a couple of minutes on each side. I pull them out with a slotted spoon the moment they are a beautiful perfect golden brown and let them rest on a wire rack. A final sprinkle of flaky sea salt while they’re still shimmering and hot is the last touch. That first bite is a perfect re-creation of that tavern magic. A shatteringly crisp shell giving way to the most tender steamy piece of fish. It’s a taste of that cozy perfect evening right in your own kitchen.
Chef’s Notes
• Quick brine for flavor and texture – A 6-minute soak firms the cheeks and seasons them evenly. Use cold brine to keep the fish fresh.
• Sift dry ingredients for a light batter – This aerates the mix and prevents clumps, ensuring a crisp, golden crust.
• Use vodka for extra crunch – Alcohol evaporates quickly, creating a lighter, crispier shell. Sparkling water works too for a non-alcoholic option.
• Rest the batter briefly – A 5-minute rest relaxes gluten and improves texture. Don’t overmix—gentle folding preserves air bubbles.
• Gribiche adds tang and complexity – The mix of capers, cornichons, herbs, and lemon zest balances the richness of the fried cheeks.
• Grate eggs for better integration – This keeps the sauce smooth and evenly textured. Chill before serving to thicken and meld flavors.
• Fry in small batches at 350°F – This prevents overcrowding and keeps oil temperature stable. Use a thermometer for accuracy.
• Dredge before battering – A light flour coat helps the batter adhere and prevents slippage during frying.
• Serve immediately for peak crispness – Pair with lemon wedges and chilled gribiche for contrast. Add fresh herbs for color.
• Prep gribiche ahead – It holds beautifully for up to 2 days in the fridge, making this dish weeknight-friendly.
Crispy Cod Cheeks
Get ready for a flavor explosion! Golden, crunchy beer-battered cod cheeks meet a zesty gribiche that pops with capers, cornichons, dill and tarragon. This dish is simple enough for a weeknight dinner yet bold enough to star at dinner parties, channeling a playful, sophisticated energy akin to top culinary pros. Ready in under 40 minutes, it’s the perfect way to elevate everyday seafood into a crave-worthy gourmet snack.
4
servings20
minutes10
minutes400
kcal6
minutes36
minutesKeep the screen of your device on
Ingredients
- Brining Mixture (for 4 servings)
3 tbsp kosher salt
2 tbsp granulated sugar
4 cups hot water to dissolve salt and sugar
4 cups cold water to chill brine
- Beer Batter
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup potato starch
1¼ tsp kosher salt
¾ tsp baking soda
2 tbsp vodka or cold seltzer
¾ cup lager-style beer
- Tangy Herb Gribiche
1¼ cups mayonnaise
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
3 tbsp drained capers minced
3 tbsp chopped cornichons
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp grated lemon zest
2 large hard-boiled eggs grated
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
3 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp hot sauce optional
- Fish Finishing
8 oz cod cheeks patted dry
½ cup all-purpose flour for dredging
Vegetable or canola oil for frying
Lemon wedges for serving
- Alternative Ingredients
– All-purpose flour: substitute with 1:1 gluten-free flour blend for a gluten-free batter.
– Potato starch: replace with cornstarch for similar crispness.
– Vodka: use cold club soda or sparkling water for a lighter batter.
– Lager beer: swap for gluten-free beer or nonalcoholic lager.
– Mayonnaise: vegan mayonnaise for an egg-free sauce.
– Hard-boiled eggs: use silken tofu mashed for a vegan gribiche.
– Capers: green olives or chopped pickles if capers are unavailable.
– Cornichons: dill pickles or pepperoncini for crunch.
– Dijon mustard: yellow mustard or whole-grain mustard for milder heat.
– Cod cheeks: use small cod fillets or haddock cheeks in a pinch.
Directions
- Brine Preparation – Whisk Together Chill (6 minutes)
Dissolve the kosher salt and granulated sugar in 4 cups of hot water in a nonreactive bowl. Once fully clear (about 2 minutes), stir in 4 cups cold water and let the brine cool down to room temperature. Submerge the cod cheeks completely in the brine and let them rest for 6 minutes; this quick soak firms the flesh and seasons it through. Optional: refrigerate the brine beforehand for an even colder soak.
- Beer Batter Assembly – Combine Charge (10 minutes)
In a medium mixing bowl, sift together flour, potato starch, kosher salt, and baking soda for an aerated, lump-free base. In a separate bowl, whisk vodka and beer together until lightly frothy, then incorporate the dry mix until just combined—overmixing will deflate the batter. Let the batter rest 5 minutes; this short rest helps the gluten relax, creating a tender crust. - Gribiche Construction – Stir Refrigerate (10 minutes)
In a clean bowl, blend mayonnaise with chopped chives, capers, cornichons, Dijon mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, and hot sauce if using. Fold in the grated eggs, dill, and tarragon until evenly distributed; this adds vibrant color and complex flavors. Cover and chill at least 10 minutes before serving to meld the tangy notes; chilling also thickens the sauce. - Frying Assembly – Dredge, Dip Cook (8 minutes)
Heat 2 inches of oil in a heavy-bottomed nonstick pan or deep fryer to 350°F (use an instant-read thermometer to confirm). Meanwhile, dredge each drained cheek lightly in flour, shake off excess, then plunge into the beer batter so it’s fully coated. Fry in small batches for about 2 minutes per side until golden brown and crisp. Transfer to paper towels to drain, then plate immediately alongside gribiche and lemon wedges for a sizzling, satisfying finish.
Equipment
- Chef’s Knife
- Cutting Board
- Mixing Bowls
- measuring cups and spoons
- silicone spatula set
- Nonstick Pan
- Instant Read Thermometer
Notes
- Ensure the oil temperature stays at 350°F; too cool and the crust will soak up oil, too hot and the cheeks burn before cooking through.
- Serve with crispy fries, a fresh green salad or slaw for a balanced plate.
- For extra zing, add a pinch of cayenne to the batter or swap half the vodka for lemon-infused sparkling water.
- If you love heat, stir in minced jalapeño to the gribiche or drizzle with chili oil.
- To prep ahead, make the gribiche up to 2 days early and keep chilled in an airtight container.
Nutrition Facts
- Serving Size: 1g
- Calories: 400kcal
- Fat: 25g
- Saturated Fat: 4g
- Trans Fat: 0.5g
- Polyunsaturated Fat: 3g
- Monounsaturated Fat: 14g
- Cholesterol: 120mg
- Sodium: 800mg
- Potassium: 200mg
- Carbohydrates: 30g
- Fiber: 1g
- Sugar: 2g
- Protein: 15g
- Vitamin A: 300IU
- Vitamin C: 5mg
- Calcium: 20mg
- Iron: 2mg
FAQs: Crispy Cod Cheeks
What makes cod cheeks different from regular cod fillets?
Cod cheeks are tender, meaty nuggets taken from just below the fish’s eyes. At Wayside Tavern, these prized morsels are celebrated for their buttery texture and natural sweetness. By preparing cod cheeks the Wayside Tavern way, you highlight a cut that feels both rustic and elevated.
Why do the cheeks need a brine before frying?
Brining helps the cheeks stay firm and well-seasoned during cooking. At Wayside Tavern, quick brines are used to bring out the seafood’s natural flavors without masking them. Following the Wayside Tavern approach gives you a dish that’s flavorful from the inside out.
What kind of beer works best for the batter?
A light lager keeps the crust crisp and airy, without overpowering the fish. At Wayside Tavern, chefs often use approachable, balanced beers that let the cod shine. Taking inspiration from Wayside Tavern ensures your batter stays golden, delicate, and delicious.
Can I make the batter without alcohol?
Yes, simply swap vodka for seltzer and beer for nonalcoholic lager. At Wayside Tavern, chefs often adapt recipes so everyone can enjoy them, regardless of preference. Using a Wayside Tavern-style substitution still delivers the crunch and lightness you want.
What’s the secret to keeping the crust crisp after frying?
Maintain steady oil temperature and avoid overcrowding the pan. At Wayside Tavern, frying is done in small batches, ensuring each piece gets the proper attention. Following the Wayside Tavern technique helps your cod cheeks come out perfectly crisp every time.
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