Lazzari: How a Naples Oven Fired Up the Portland Food Scene

A Slice of Naples in the Heart of Maine: Lazzari and the Calzone

After a long day of walking around Portland, the evening chill started to set in. I was just wandering, looking for a place to duck into for dinner, when I saw this warm glow spilling out onto the street. It was coming from a place called Lazzari, and the smell of a real wood fire pulled me right in.

Inside, the first thing you notice is the oven. It’s this massive, beautifully tiled beast of a thing, and it’s clearly the heart and soul of the whole restaurant. The place had a modern feel, but the energy was all old world comfort. It felt like a spot that really, truly cared about the food it was making.

I got to talking and learned that the story behind this place is just as cool as the vibe. Lazzari was started by two guys who were completely obsessed with making perfect Neapolitan pizza. This wasn’t just a business idea. It was a passion. They were so dedicated to getting it right that they actually imported that giant, beautiful oven all the way from Naples, Italy. You can just imagine the journey that thing had.

And the name, Lazzari, even has a story. It’s a nod to the street kids in Naples centuries ago, the original pizza eaters who would buy cheap, foldable pizzas and eat them on the go. It’s a little piece of history right there in the name. They wanted to bring that authentic spirit of Naples to Portland, but with their own twist, using a sourdough starter for their dough which gives it this amazing, unique flavor.

The menu was full of incredible looking pizzas, but I’ve always had a soft spot for a good calzone. I had to try their Traditional Calzone. It felt like the right way to test the soul of a place like this.

When it came out, it was magnificent. A perfect, golden-brown crescent, puffed up and beautiful, with a little dusting of flour on top. It looked so simple but so perfect.

I cut into it with my fork, and a cloud of steam escaped, smelling of baked bread and melted cheese. Inside was a molten river of creamy ricotta, mozzarella, and salty prosciutto cotto. It wasn’t overly stuffed or complicated. It was just the perfect balance of ingredients. The crust was the real star. It was crisp on the outside but so light and chewy on the inside, with that amazing sourdough tang. Every bite was just a warm, comforting hug. It was the kind of food that makes you want to slow down and just enjoy the moment.

Lazzari felt like a special find. It’s a place that honors tradition but isn’t afraid to be itself. It’s a little slice of Italian passion, fired up and served with a whole lot of heart, right in the middle of Maine.

Making My Own Pocket of Comfort

That calzone from Lazzari was the definition of comfort food, and I found myself craving it on a chilly night back home. I knew I couldn’t just pop over to Portland, and I certainly don’t have a giant oven imported from Naples. But I figured I could try to make a little of that magic myself.

I started with the dough. I’m not a baker, so I bought a fresh ball of pizza dough from a local Italian deli. It’s a great shortcut that still tastes amazing. I let it sit out on the counter for a bit to come to room temperature, which makes it much easier to work with.

While the dough was resting, I made the filling. I scooped a big blob of whole milk ricotta into a bowl. To that, I added a handful of shredded mozzarella, a little sprinkle of parmesan for a salty kick, and some chopped fresh parsley. I found some good Italian cooked ham, which I chopped up and threw in there too. A little salt and pepper, and then I mixed it all together until it was a beautiful, creamy mess.

Now for the fun part. I dusted my counter with flour, plopped the dough down, and gently stretched it out into a circle. You don’t want it too thin or it’ll break. I spooned the cheesy filling onto one half of the dough, leaving a little space around the edge. Then, I carefully folded the other half over, like closing a book, to make that classic crescent shape. I pressed the edges together with my fingers and then used a fork to crimp it all shut so none of the good stuff could escape.

I cranked my oven up as high as it would go and let a baking sheet get hot inside. I gently placed my calzone on the hot sheet, brushed the top with a little olive oil, and slid it into the oven. I just baked it until it was all puffed up, golden brown, and beautiful, kind of like a mini version of the one from Lazzari.

Letting it cool for a minute was the hardest part. When I finally cut into it, that familiar cloud of steam came pouring out. It was a gooey, cheesy, glorious sight. It wasn’t Lazzari, but it was a delicious, comforting echo of that perfect meal in Portland. And making it myself somehow made it taste even better.

Chef’s Notes: Cheesy Baked Calzones

• Activate yeast in warm—not hot—water – 110°F is ideal. Too hot and you’ll kill the yeast; too cold and it won’t bloom.

• Knead until elastic – A smooth, stretchy dough ensures a tender bite and helps trap steam for puffed pockets.

• Chill the filling briefly – This firms up the cheese blend and makes sealing easier, preventing leaks during baking.

• Crimp edges with a fork – Press firmly to seal, then flip and crimp again for extra insurance against bursting.

• Brush with egg wash for shine – A light coat gives that bakery-style golden finish. For a deeper color, use yolk only.

• Bake on a hot surface – A preheated pizza stone or inverted baking sheet crisps the base beautifully.

• Rest before slicing – Let calzones sit 3–5 minutes after baking. This keeps the filling from spilling and improves texture.

• Serve with sauce on the side – Marinara, garlic butter, or pesto make perfect dipping companions.

• Freeze before baking for meal prep – Assemble, freeze flat, then store in bags. Bake straight from frozen with a few extra minutes.

• Customize endlessly – Swap fillings based on mood or occasion—veggie-packed, spicy sausage, or even breakfast-style.

FAQs: Cheesy Baked Calzones

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