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The Best Food in an Old Storeroom: Central Provisions and The Torchon
Portland Maine’s Old Port is a maze of cobblestone streets and old brick buildings. It’s easy to get lost in the best way. I was doing just that letting the city lead me when I saw a little crowd spilling out of a tiny storefront. The name on the building was simple and historic. Central Provisions.
It sounded like an old general store not a modern restaurant. It felt like a secret. I knew I had to get in.
I managed to squeeze inside and found a beautiful chaos. The room was tiny. It was buzzing with happy energy. There was a long bar and a small open kitchen where you could see the chefs working their magic. It felt like the center of the universe.
I found a single seat at the bar. The menu was a treasure map of incredible small plates. My eyes went to one dish that felt like the ultimate indulgence. Foie Gras Torchon.
When it arrived it was a work of art. A perfect little disc of foie gras so smooth and beautiful. It was served with toasted brioche and a sweet fruit jam. I spread a little of the torchon on the warm brioche.
And it was a moment of pure bliss. It was the richest most decadent most delicious thing. It was silky and buttery and it just melted in my mouth. The sweetness of the jam cut through the richness perfectly. It was a single perfect bite of food. This was not just a dish. It was a statement.
Food this thoughtful this perfect has to have a story.
I got to talking with the bartender. I said “This is one of the most incredible things I have ever eaten. This place has so much soul. What’s the story with the name?”
He smiled a big knowing smile. “You’re sitting in it” he said.
He explained that this building is one of the oldest on the street. And it was originally a provisions storehouse. A place where ships would come to get their central provisions before heading out to sea. Flour sugar salt. All the essentials.
And in that moment the whole beautiful restaurant came into perfect focus.
The name isn’t a clever theme. It’s the building’s actual history. And the restaurant’s whole philosophy is to be a new kind of provisions house. A place where the community can come to get the best small plates the most delicious little treasures.
My perfect bite of foie gras was a provision. A little bit of luxury to sustain the soul.
I left Central Provisions feeling like I had found the heart of the city. A place that honors its past but is completely living in the now. It’s a powerful delicious reminder that the best stories are the ones that are right under your feet. It is an absolute treasure.
A Kitchen Project: Chasing the Perfect Torchon
That foie gras torchon at Central Provisions was so perfect it felt like a magic trick. It inspired me to try and pull off a little magic of my own. Making a torchon at home is a real project a weekend adventure but it’s one of the most rewarding things you can do in a kitchen.
The journey begins with the main character a beautiful lobe of foie gras. The first part of the adventure is a delicate little surgery. You let the foie soften just a bit and then very gently you clean it removing the little veins inside. It takes patience but it’s the secret to a perfectly silky torchon.
Once the foie is ready it gets a spa treatment. I sprinkle it generously with a mix of salt sugar and a little white pepper and then drizzle it with a sweet wine like a Sauternes. Then it gets tucked away in the fridge for a night to let all those flavors sink in and work their magic.
The next day is the transformation. The cured foie gets laid out on a big piece of cheesecloth. Now comes the most important part. You have to roll it into the tightest possible little cylinder. This is what gives the torchon its perfect shape and dense creamy texture. I roll it and squeeze it and tie the ends up tight like a little treasure.
The cooking part is surprisingly gentle. The tightly wrapped torchon goes for a slow swim in a pot of simmering water. It’s not a violent boil but a gentle poaching that slowly cooks the foie and renders it perfectly. After its warm bath it gets a cold shock in a big bowl of ice water to stop the cooking instantly.
And then comes the hardest part of all the waiting. The torchon goes into the fridge for a day or two to chill and set and become something truly special. When the moment finally arrives you unwrap your beautiful creation. You slice it into perfect little discs. Served on a piece of toasted brioche with a spoonful of fig jam it’s a taste of that perfect night in Portland. A little provision of pure bliss you made with your own two hands.
Chef’s Notes: Duck Liver Torchon
• Start with cold, pliable liver – This makes deveining easier and prevents smearing during shaping. Room temp for 10–15 minutes is ideal.
• Devein thoroughly for smooth texture – Use tweezers or a paring knife to remove all visible veins. This step defines the torchon’s elegance.
• Use curing salt for color and preservation – Optional, but it gives the torchon a delicate pink hue and extends shelf life.
• Layer seasoning and brandy evenly – Press gently to form a uniform square before rolling. This ensures consistent flavor throughout.
• Roll tightly using a bamboo mat – Compacting the liver into a firm cylinder is key to its signature shape and sliceability.
• Wrap in cheesecloth and bind with twine – This adds structure and helps press out excess fat during chilling and poaching.
• Hang and chill for 24–72 hours – Dry-aging deepens flavor and firms the texture. Longer chill = more refinement.
• Poach gently at 160°F – Watch for fat droplets surfacing—this signals it’s time to shock in ice water. Don’t overcook.
• Slice with a hot knife for clean rounds – Wipe between cuts and serve on a chilled platter to maintain firmness.
• Pair with sweet wine and acidic condiments – Sauternes, fig chutney, or pickled shallots balance the richness beautifully.
Duck Liver Torchon
Get ready to impress with this silky Duck Liver Torchon! In true celebrity-chef style, we’re curating a luscious, melt-in-your-mouth treat that elevates any gathering. From expertly trimming the liver to the artful wrapping technique and delicate poaching, each step is a masterclass in gourmet simplicity. You’ll fall in love with the balance of savory herbs, a kiss of brandy, and the luxurious texture that only a classic torchon can deliver. Let’s transform humble ingredients into a show-stopping French starter—get excited, because your taste buds are in for a ride!
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Ingredients
- Meat & Main
½ lb fresh duck liver patted dry and brought to cool room temperature (about 15 min)
- Cure Blend
1 tbsp fine kosher salt
1 ½ tsp granulated sugar
½ tsp pink curing salt optional, for color and preservation
1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
- Flavor Lift
1 tbsp brandy or Cognac
- Wrapping Supplies
Generous sheets of plastic wrap
1 bamboo sushi mat or parchment substitute
2 ft piece of cheesecloth
Kitchen twine for binding
- Alternative Ingredients
Pink curing salt → extra kosher salt if avoiding nitrates
Brandy → dark rum whiskey, or apple brandy (similar warmth)
Duck liver → goose liver or chicken livers adjust cook time
Cheesecloth → clean linen tea towel natural fiber alternative
Bamboo mat → rolled parchment paper nonstick option
Kitchen twine → silicone cooking ties no waste
Directions
- Prepping Deveining – Let your liver rest at room temperature for 10–15 minutes so it firms up slightly, making vein removal easier. Slice the two lobes apart with a paring knife, then gently tease out veins using tweezers or the tip of a paring knife. This step takes about 15 minutes; attend to small vessels thoroughly to avoid a gritty mouthfeel.
- Crafting the Cure Blend – In a small bowl, whisk together kosher salt, sugar, optional curing salt, and black pepper until evenly incorporated, about 5 minutes. This seasoning not only flavors but also draws out excess moisture; if you skip curing salt, expect a paler final color.
- Shaping Seasoning – Lay a triple layer of plastic wrap (12×18 inches) on a work surface. Place the liver, membrane-side down, and press gently to form a 9×9 inch square of uniform thickness. Sprinkle half of the cure blend evenly, drizzle half of the brandy, then flip by folding the wrap. Remove the top layer, repeat with remaining cure and brandy. (10 minutes) Optional: let marinate 10 minutes for deeper penetration.
- Rolling in Plastic – Slide the wrapped liver onto a bamboo mat, with its edge aligned to the mat’s bottom. Tuck plastic beneath the liver, then roll tightly into a cylinder, pulling the mat to compact as you go. Secure ends by twisting the plastic; this step should take 5 minutes and ensures a firm torchon.
- Cheesecloth Binding – Transfer the plastic roll onto cheesecloth, leaving a few inches free at the bottom. Roll again to wrap fully, then twist each end and fasten with twine. Tighten until you feel gentle resistance (about 5 minutes); ingesting tiny fat beads is a sign you’ve pressed enough.
- First Hang Chill – Suspend the wrapped torchon in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours (up to 72 hours) on a rack or hook. This dry-aging step deepens flavor and firms texture.
- Final Tightening Rest – Unwrap briefly to replace or tighten the twine one more time, encouraging any remaining fat to press out—about 3 minutes. Rehang for another 24 hours in the fridge.
- Serving Prep – Remove cheesecloth, slice off end pieces for tasting, then unwrap the center. Cut into ¼-inch rounds, trim any discoloration with a small cutter if desired. Plate with coarse sea salt, toasted bread, or fruit preserves. (5 minutes)
Equipment
- chef knife
- cutting board
- paring knife
- digital scale
- mixing bowls
Notes
- • Make sure your liver is cold but pliable—too warm and it will smear when you slice.
• Serve chilled on a pre-chilled platter to keep the torchon firm.
• Pair with a lightly sweet Sauternes or ice-cold Riesling for balance.
• Add a dollop of fruit chutney (fig or apricot) or sprinkle microgreens for freshness.
• Leftovers freeze well—wrap in plastic, then foil; thaw overnight in fridge before slicing.
Nutrition Facts
- Serving Size: 56g
- Calories: 280kcal
- Fat: 26g
- Saturated Fat: 10g
- Trans Fat: 0.1g
- Polyunsaturated Fat: 6g
- Monounsaturated Fat: 8g
- Cholesterol: 220mg
- Sodium: 1.725mg
- Potassium: 210mg
- Carbohydrates: 1g
- Fiber: 0.1g
- Sugar: 1g
- Protein: 6g
- Vitamin A: 3IU
- Vitamin C: 1mg
- Calcium: 6mg
- Iron: 4mg
FAQs: Duck Liver Torchon
What makes this torchon recipe so special?
The torchon shines because of its balance of rich texture and delicate seasoning. At Central Provision, chefs prepare foie gras and duck liver torchons with the same care, layering herbs, brandy, and curing methods. This Central Provision style of refinement turns a rustic ingredient into an elegant appetizer, and following their influence ensures you’ll taste restaurant-quality flavor at home.
Can I make this dish ahead of time?
Yes, a torchon actually benefits from resting. At Central Provision, preparations are done days in advance so flavors fully develop. When you recreate the dish, chilling for 48–72 hours mirrors the Central Provision method, ensuring smooth texture and deeply seasoned results.
What type of liver works best?
Duck liver is the classic choice, though goose or even chicken livers can work. Central Provision often favors duck for its balance of richness and silkiness. By following the Central Provision standard, you can trust you’ll achieve that signature melt-in-your-mouth quality.
Do I need special tools to shape the torchon?
You’ll need plastic wrap, cheesecloth, and twine to form the cylinder. These tools are also used in professional kitchens like Central Provision. By rolling and binding as Central Provision does, you ensure the torchon sets firmly and slices into clean, beautiful rounds.
How do I serve torchon for the best presentation?
Slice into thin rounds and pair with toasted baguette or fruit preserves. Central Provision often plates torchon with colorful garnishes, adding elegance to the rustic base. Taking a cue from Central Provision, you can elevate your table with both flavor and presentation.
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