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A Traveler’s Tale: Celeste and the Taste of Andean History
Celeste is a small, intimate restaurant located in Somerville’s Union Square. Its physical footprint is minimal, a factor that is central to its character. The space is often crowded and energetic, creating the atmosphere of a bustling, private dinner party rather than a formal restaurant. This intentional intimacy is a key component of its identity.
The menu is a focused representation of Peruvian cuisine. To understand the kitchen’s approach, I ordered the Carapulcra, described as an ancient Andean stew.
The dish arrived as a rustic, home-style stew of a deep, earthy red color. Its primary components were slow-cooked pork and rehydrated dried potatoes (papa seca). The technical execution was notable. The pork was exceptionally tender, and the papa seca provided a unique, slightly chewy texture that is characteristic of the dish. The flavor was deep and complex, deriving its smokiness from aji panca chili and its richness from a long, slow simmering process. It was not a refined or composed dish, but a powerful and authentic expression of traditional, soulful cooking.
This commitment to authenticity is a direct reflection of the restaurant’s origin. I learned that Celeste is a family-run establishment named after the owner’s grandmother.
The restaurant’s concept is not a broad interpretation of Peruvian food, but a deeply personal one. The explicit goal is to recreate the experience of being a guest in their family home, sharing the specific dishes and warm hospitality they grew up with. The intimate, sometimes loud, nature of the space is a feature, not a flaw, as it mirrors the convivial atmosphere of a family gathering.
The Carapulcra is a perfect embodiment of this philosophy. It is a traditional, historic dish, not a modern interpretation. Its soulful, rustic quality is a direct taste of a family’s culinary heritage.
Celeste is a successful and precise execution of a very personal vision. The small space, the specific menu, and the authentic, unpretentious cooking all cohere to create an experience that feels less like a commercial transaction and more like a genuine invitation into a family’s home. It is a powerful example of how a restaurant can serve as a direct and honest expression of cultural and familial identity.
The Art of Carapulcra: Crafting Peruvian History in Your Kitchen
o recreate the comforting flavors of Celeste’s Carapulcra at home is to step into Peru’s rich Incan past. This dish celebrates the papa seca—dehydrated potatoes that embody centuries of Andean tradition. Preparing it is not quick; it’s a patient process that honors the wisdom of ancient cooking.
The heart of the dish lies in papa seca. These potatoes are toasted, soaked overnight, and rehydrated before cooking. Their unique texture absorbs the stew’s flavors while holding their shape, giving Carapulcra its signature depth.
Once the potatoes are ready, the dish becomes an exercise in layering flavors. Sauté onions and garlic in good oil, then stir in ají amarillo and ají panca pastes—peppers that provide the fruity, vibrant notes essential to Peruvian cuisine. Add browned chicken and pork, then simmer everything with broth and the rehydrated potatoes until tender and infused with flavor.
Though Celeste’s menu highlights Porto wine, other slightly sweet red wines can bring similar richness. A finishing touch of ground peanuts adds nuttiness and texture, rounding out the stew in a way that’s both rustic and refined.
Carapulcra is best served in a warm bowl, as it would be in a Peruvian home. More than a meal, it’s an experience—a dish that nourishes both body and spirit. To make it is to connect with history, honoring a culture that transformed a humble ingredient into a masterpiece.
Chef’s Notes: Potato & Pork Peanut Stew
• Soak freeze-dried potatoes overnight – Ensures full hydration and tender texture; keep fully submerged for even results.
• Use a tight-fitting lid while simmering – Maintains moisture and prevents stock reduction; ideal for slow, even cooking.
• Serve with rice, cassava, or zarza criolla – Complements the stew’s richness with starch or acidity; great for traditional plating.
• Add carrots or peas in final simmer – Boosts color and nutrition; stir in during last 10 minutes for best texture.
• Sear meats separately for golden crust – Builds flavor through Maillard reaction; don’t overcrowd the pan.
• Deglaze with stock if needed – Loosens flavorful bits stuck to the pan; adds depth to the base.
• Use ají panca for smoky heat – Signature Peruvian flavor; red bell pepper paste + smoked paprika works as a substitute.
• Finish with lime juice or cilantro – Adds brightness and contrast; optional but recommended for balance.
• Freeze leftovers in portions – Holds well for up to 2 months; thaw gently and reheat over low heat.
• Grind peanuts coarsely – Adds body and texture to the sauce; avoid over-processing into paste.
Potato & Pork Peanut Stew
Get ready for a flavor explosion with this vibrant Peruvian pork and peanut stew! Imagine tender pork and juicy chicken seared to golden perfection, then bathed in a rich, chile-spiced peanut broth with cubes of hearty potatoes. It’s rustic comfort in a bowl—pepperm notes of ají panca paste, a punch of garlic and onion, and a crescendo of spice that will have your guests asking for seconds. This dish is an absolute crowd-pleaser, weaving tradition and modern ease in every spoonful. Medium difficulty means you’ll learn new tricks without breaking a sweat!
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Ingredients
- Proteins
10 oz pork loin, trimmed and cut into 1″ cubes
10 oz boneless chicken breast, diced into bite-size pieces
- Vegetables Aromatics
1½ cups red onion, roughly chopped
1 tbsp garlic paste
¾ cup ají panca chili paste
- Spices Seasonings
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp kosher salt
½ tsp black pepper
- Base Vegetables
1 lb freeze-dried potatoes (papa seca), soaked overnight and drained
- Liquids Nuts
3 cups low-sodium chicken stock
1 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely ground
- Fats
3 tbsp vegetable oil
- Alternative Ingredients
Freeze-dried potatoes: swap with 2½ lbs fresh Yukon gold potatoes peeled and cubed
Pork loin: use beef chuck or lamb shoulder for a richer flavor
Chicken breast: substitute turkey breast or extra pork for all-pork stew
Ají panca paste: replace with red bell pepper paste mixed with smoked paprika
Roasted peanuts: swap for roasted cashews or toasted pumpkin seeds for nut-free option
Chicken stock: use vegetable stock or water with a bouillon cube
Vegetable oil: replace with olive oil or avocado oil
Garlic paste: use 3 cloves minced fresh garlic
Red onion: substitute yellow onion or shallots
Ground cumin: use ground coriander or a pinch of caraway seeds
Black pepper: replace with white pepper or a dusting of cayenne for extra heat
Directions
- Meat Searing – Preheat a heavy cast iron skillet over medium-high heat and swirl in the vegetable oil. Once hot (about 2 minutes), add pork and chicken pieces in a single layer. Sear until each side is golden brown, roughly 5 minutes total, then transfer to a plate. This Maillard reaction builds deep, savory notes.
- Aromatic Infusion – Lower heat to medium and add chopped red onion, garlic paste, and ají panca chili paste. Stir continuously for 4–5 minutes until onions soften and the paste releases its oils. This step unlocks essential aromas and begins building your flavor base. Optional: deglaze pan with ¼ cup stock if bits start to stick.
- Adding Potatoes Stock – Drain the pre-soaked freeze-dried potatoes and nestle them into the skillet. Pour in chicken stock, bring to a simmer over medium heat, then lower to a gentle bubble. Cover partially and cook for 60 minutes, stirring every 5–10 minutes to prevent sticking and ensure even hydration.
- Peanut Enrichment Final Simmer – Stir in ground peanuts, cumin, salt, and black pepper. Let the stew cook uncovered on low for an additional 10 minutes to thicken. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Optional: finish with a handful of chopped cilantro or a squeeze of fresh lime juice for brightness.
Equipment
- cast iron skillet
- mixing bowls
- measuring cups and spoons
- chef knife
- cutting board
- colander
Notes
- For best texture, ensure your freeze-dried potatoes are fully submerged during the overnight soak. Use a tight-fitting lid to maintain gentle simmer without losing liquid. Serve alongside fluffy white rice, boiled cassava, or a crisp zarza criolla onion salad. Add diced carrots or peas in the final simmer for extra color and nutrition. Leftovers freeze beautifully for easy meal prep—just portion and thaw gently before reheating.
Nutrition Facts
- Serving Size: 1g
- Calories: 660kcal
- Fat: 36g
- Saturated Fat: 6g
- Cholesterol: 90mg
- Sodium: 680mg
- Potassium: 900mg
- Carbohydrates: 45g
- Fiber: 6g
- Sugar: 3g
- Protein: 42g
- Vitamin A: 4000IU
- Vitamin C: 15mg
- Calcium: 60mg
- Iron: 3mg
FAQs: Potato & Pork Peanut Stew
What makes this Peruvian stew unique?
This dish combines pork, chicken, and peanuts with ají panca paste for a balance of richness and spice. At Celeste, the focus is always on highlighting authentic flavors, and following the Celeste approach ensures the stew tastes both traditional and refined.
Can I make this stew without freeze-dried potatoes?
Yes, Yukon gold potatoes are a great substitute if freeze-dried ones aren’t available. At Celeste, chefs sometimes adapt recipes to local ingredients, and bringing that Celeste flexibility into your kitchen keeps the dish accessible.
How can I ensure the stew develops deep flavor?
Searing the meat until golden brown and sautéing the aromatics thoroughly builds complexity. Celeste chefs emphasize layering flavor through careful cooking stages, and mirroring that Celeste method guarantees a robust, savory result.
What protein swaps work well in this recipe?
Beef chuck, lamb shoulder, or turkey can stand in for pork or chicken. At Celeste, chefs occasionally feature variations of this stew with seasonal meats, and using that Celeste creativity keeps the dish exciting.
Is this stew suitable for meal prepping?
Yes, it reheats well and even develops deeper flavor after a day or two. At Celeste, stews are often prepared ahead for large gatherings, and that Celeste practice ensures convenience without sacrificing taste.
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