Nestled in the bustling heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Cha Ca La Vong isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a living piece of Vietnam’s culinary heritage. As one of the oldest dining establishments in the country, it has perfected the art of serving one dish—Cha Ca, a sizzling turmeric-marinated fish dish that has become legendary. My visit here was nothing short of transformative, offering an intimate glimpse into Vietnam’s rich food culture and history.
The Setting: A Taste of Timelessness
Stepping into Cha Ca La Vong, I was immediately greeted by the warm aroma of spices mingling with sizzling oil. The decor is modest, with simple wooden tables and chairs, but the atmosphere is imbued with an undeniable sense of tradition. The walls were adorned with old photographs and framed newspaper clippings, showcasing the restaurant’s storied past. Even amid Hanoi’s ever-evolving culinary scene, this place stands still in time, holding on to its roots.
The staff, though busy, welcomed me with genuine smiles, their quick efficiency a testament to decades of practice. While the menu is famously minimal—centering solely on their namesake dish—it felt refreshingly purposeful. The singular focus heightened my anticipation for what was to come.
The Dish: Cha Ca, a Sizzling Masterpiece
Before I could finish taking in the ambiance, a server brought over a cast-iron pan filled with chunks of golden fish sizzling in a bubbling pool of oil. The fish, marinated in turmeric, galangal, and other spices, released an intoxicating aroma that set my taste buds tingling.
Alongside the fish came a colorful array of accompaniments: a basket of fresh dill and scallions, bowls of cold vermicelli noodles, roasted peanuts, a tangy shrimp paste sauce, and pickled vegetables. The server quickly tossed the greens into the pan, and the vibrant dill and scallions wilted into the hot oil, creating a fragrant steam cloud.
Following their lead, I assembled a bowl with the vermicelli noodles as the base, topped it with pieces of the tender, flaky fish, and garnished it with peanuts, herbs, and a drizzle of shrimp paste. The flavors were nothing short of extraordinary—a perfect harmony of earthy turmeric, the fresh brightness of dill, the crunch of peanuts, and the umami depth of the shrimp paste. Each bite was an intricate dance of textures and flavors, deeply satisfying and endlessly memorable.
Recreate Cha Ca La Vong at Home: A Recipe to Try
While nothing compares to experiencing Cha Ca at its birthplace in Hanoi, you can recreate this iconic dish in your own kitchen. Here’s a simple recipe inspired by my visit to Cha Ca La Vong:
Vietnamese Turmeric Dill Fried Fish
Experience the vibrant flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter with this irresistible Vietnamese Turmeric Dill Fried Fish. Bursting with aromatic herbs and the subtle warmth of turmeric, this dish is perfectly paired with fresh rice noodles, crunchy peanuts, and a savory fermented shrimp sauce. Easy to prepare and deeply satisfying, it’s a must-try for anyone craving authentic Southeast Asian cuisine. Let the rich blend of dill and traditional spices elevate your dinner game tonight!
4
15
minutes10
minutes600
kcal2
minutes27
minutesKeep the screen of your device on
Ingredients
- Marinated Fish
1.5 pounds white fish fillets cut into 1.5-inch pieces
1/2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp fish sauce
1 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp freshly grated ginger or galangal
2 cloves garlic grated
2 tbsp minced shallots
- Coating and Frying
1/2 cup cornstarch
Vegetable oil for deep frying
- Aromatics and Garnish
1 bunch fresh dill
4 green onions sliced into 2-inch segments
1 small yellow onion peeled and cut into wedges
- Accompaniments
Medium rice noodles cooked according to package instructions
Roasted salted peanuts
Rice paper
Rice crackers
Mắm Tôm dipping sauce
- Alternative Ingredients:
White Fish Fillets: Substitute with firm tofu or tempeh for a vegetarian option.
Fish Sauce: Use soy sauce or tamari as a replacement for a vegetarian or gluten-free alternative.
Cornstarch: Arrowroot powder or tapioca starch can replace cornstarch for different textures.
Turmeric Powder: If unavailable use a mix of paprika and a pinch of saffron for color and flavor.
Dill: Fresh cilantro or parsley can be used as an alternative herb.
Directions
- Marinate the Fish: Begin by slicing the white fish fillets into 1.5-inch pieces. In a mixing bowl, combine sea salt, fish sauce, granulated sugar, turmeric powder, grated ginger or galangal, grated garlic, and minced shallots. Add the fish pieces to the marinade, ensuring each piece is thoroughly coated. Let it sit for about 10 minutes to absorb the flavors. *Optional:* For deeper flavor, marinate for up to 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
- Prepare for Frying: While the fish is marinating, measure out 1/2 cup of cornstarch and place it in a separate shallow dish. Once the marinade time is complete, dredge each fish piece in the cornstarch, ensuring an even coating. Shake off any excess cornstarch to prevent clumping.
- Deep Fry the Fish: Heat about an inch of vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, carefully add the coated fish pieces in batches to avoid overcrowding. Fry each piece for approximately 5 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. Use a slotted spoon to remove the fried fish and place them on a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil.
- Cook the Aromatics: In a clean pan or the same cast iron skillet, add a small amount of vegetable oil. Heat over medium heat and add the yellow onion wedges. Sauté until the onions are lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the fresh dill and sliced green onions to the pan, cooking for an additional minute until the herbs are just wilted. *Optional:* Add a splash of fish sauce for extra depth.
- Assemble and Serve: Arrange a portion of cooked rice noodles on each plate. Top with the crispy fried fish and the sautéed aromatics. Sprinkle roasted salted peanuts over the top for added crunch. Serve alongside rice paper, rice crackers, and a side of mắm tôm dipping sauce for a complete and authentic Vietnamese meal.
Equipment
- cast iron skillet
- Mixing Bowls
- measuring cups and spoons
- Chef’s Knife
- Cutting Board
Nutrition Facts
- Calories: 600kcal
- Fat: 30g
- Saturated Fat: 5g
- Cholesterol: 100mg
- Sodium: 800mg
- Potassium: 500mg
- Carbohydrates: 40g
- Fiber: 5g
- Sugar: 5g
- Protein: 35g
- Vitamin A: 500IU
- Vitamin C: 10mg
- Calcium: 80mg
- Iron: 1.5mg
